Environmental Oceanography - 1st Edition - ISBN: 9780080262918, 9781483279671

Environmental Oceanography

1st Edition

An Introduction to the Behaviour of Coastal Waters

Authors: Tom Beer
eBook ISBN: 9781483279671
Imprint: Pergamon
Published Date: 1st January 1983
Page Count: 284
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Environmental Oceanography: An Introduction of the Behaviour of the Coastal Water covers the physical environment in coastal water. This book is composed of thirteen chapters, and begins with an overview of the coastal oceanography field. The succeeding chapters deal with the natural processes along the shore, the concept of wave and tides, water composition and circulation, and boundary layers. These topics are followed by discussions on ocean water flow, coastal meteorology, estuaries, and reefs. The final chapters present the application of direct and remote sensing and data analysis. This book will prove useful to divers, environmental managers, environmental administrators, and students.

Table of Contents

List of Symbols


Chapter 1. Coastal Oceanography

1.1 Introduction

1.2 Coastal Waters

1.3 Fishing and Biology

1.4 Economics and Geology

1.5 Units and Dimensions

Chapter 2. Shore Processes

2.1 Introduction

2.2 Wave Refraction

2.3 Breakers

2.4 Beach Processes

2.5 Coastal Engineering

2.6 Coastal Zone Management

Chapter 3. Waves

3.1 Surface Waves

3.2 Energy Propagation

3.3 Wave Set-up

3.4 Wave Spectra

3.5 Trapped Waves

3.6 Long Wavelength Waves

3.7 Internal Waves

3.8 Seasickness

Chapter 4. Tides

4.1 Astronomical Tides

4.2 Dynamical Theory

4.3 Tidal Prediction

4.4 Tidal Power

4.5 Long Period Tides

4.6 Internal Tides

4.7 The Littoral Zone

Chapter 5. Water Composition

5.1 Introduction

5.2 Density

5.3 Vertical Temperature

5.4 Salinity

5.5 Dissolved Gases

5.6 Nutrients

5.7 Rivers

5.8 Water Quality

Chapter 6. Water Circulation

6.1 Introduction

6.2 Pressure Forces

6.3 Coriolis Force

6.4 Diffusion

6.5 Viscosity

Chapter 7. Boundary Layers

7.1 Introduction

7.2 Ekman Layers

7.3 Benthic Boundary Layers

7.4 Coastal Boundary Layers

Chapter 8. Mixing

8.1 Turbulence

8.2 Convection

8.3 Turbulent Entrainment

8.4 Dispersion

8.5 Oceanic Fronts

8.6 Large-scale Mixing

Chapter 9. Coastal Meteorology

9.1 Introduction

9.2 Hydrological Cycle

9.3 Winds

9.4 Aerosols

9.5 Oil Spills

9.6 Coastal Lows

Chapter 10. Estuaries and Reefs

10.1 Introduction

10.2 Geomorphological Classification of Estuaries

10.3 Estuarine Hydrology

10.4 Estuarine Pollution

10.5 Coral Reefs

Chapter 11. Direct and Remote Sensing

11.1 Instruments and Methods

11.2 Remote Sensing

11.3 Acoustics

11.4 Electromagnetic Radiation

11.5 Marine Optics

11.6 Radar

11.7 Satellites

Chapter 12. Data Analysis

12.1 Data Presentation

12.2 Data Analysis and Statistics

12.3 Time Series Analysis

12.4 Modelling

12.5 Ecosystems Analysis

Chapter 13. Coastal Assessment

13.1 Introduction

13.2 Cost-Benefit Analysis

13.3 Aquatic Ecosystems

13.4 Pollution


Appendix 1 SI Units

Appendix 2 Sample Equipment Checklist

Appendix 3 Wave Glossary

Appendix 4 Oceanographic Glossary



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© Pergamon 1983
eBook ISBN:

About the Author

Tom Beer

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