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Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.
Characteristics of Wave Records in the Coastal Zone
A Basic Description of Sediment Transport on Beaches
Equations for Water Waves and the Approximations behind Them
Wave Resonance near Shores
Wave Behavior near Caustics in Models and in Nature
Harmonic Generation in Shallow Water Waves
Recent Progress in the Study of Longshore Currents
Sediment Suspension by Water Waves
Forms of Sediment Accumulation in the Beach Zone
Run-up on Beaches
Wave Breaking in Shallow Water
- No. of pages:
- © Academic Press 1972
- 1st January 1972
- Academic Press
- eBook ISBN: