Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport

Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.

Preface

Characteristics of Wave Records in the Coastal Zone

A Basic Description of Sediment Transport on Beaches

Equations for Water Waves and the Approximations behind Them

Wave Resonance near Shores

Wave Behavior near Caustics in Models and in Nature

Harmonic Generation in Shallow Water Waves

Recent Progress in the Study of Longshore Currents

Sediment Suspension by Water Waves

Forms of Sediment Accumulation in the Beach Zone

Run-up on Beaches

Wave Breaking in Shallow Water

Index