# Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures

## 1st Edition

**Authors:**Paolo Boccotti

**Hardcover ISBN:**9780128003435

**eBook ISBN:**9780128004135

**Imprint:**Butterworth-Heinemann

**Published Date:**23rd September 2014

**Page Count:**344

## Description

*Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures* provides a new perspective on the calculation of wave forces on ocean structures, unifying the deterministic and probabilistic approaches to wave theory and combining the methods used in field and experimental measurement.

Presenting his quasi-determinism (QD) theory and approach of using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs), author Paolo Boccotti simplifies the findings and techniques honed in his ground-breaking work to provide engineers and researchers with practical new methods of analysis.

Including numerous worked examples and case studies, *Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures* also discusses and provides useful FORTRAN programs, including a subroutine for calculating particle velocity and acceleration in wave groups, and programs for calculating wave loads on several kinds of structures.

## Key Features

- Solves the conceptual separation of deterministic and stochastic approaches to wave theory seen in other resources through the application of quasi-determinism (QD) theory
- Combines the distinct experimental activities of field measurements and wave tank experiment using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs)
- Simplifies and applies the ground-breaking work and techniques of this leading expert in wave theory and marine construction

## Readership

Graduate students, researchers, marine structural engineers, naval architects, mechanical engineers and civil engineers involved in marine structural design and analysis.

## Table of Contents

- Dedication
- Preface
- Acknowledgments
- Symbols
- Abbreviations and Acronyms
- Chapter 1. Wave Mechanics: Basic Concepts
- 1.1. The System of Equations
- 1.2. Introduction to Wave Mechanics
- 1.3. Stokes' Theory to the First Order
- 1.4. Stokes' Theory to the Second Order
- 1.5. Wave–Current Interaction
- 1.6. Preliminary Remarks on Three-Dimensional Waves
- 1.7. Wave Reflection
- 1.8. Wave Diffraction
- 1.9. Energy Flux and Wave Energy
- 1.10. The Group Velocity
- 1.11. Conclusion

- Chapter 2. Wave Transformation near Coasts
- 2.1. Refraction with Straight Contour Lines
- 2.2. Refraction with Arbitrary Contour Lines
- 2.3. Wave–Current Interaction in Some Straits
- 2.4. Worked Example
- 2.5. Conclusion

- Chapter 3. Random Wind-Generated Waves: Basic Concepts
- 3.1. Sea State, Significant Wave Height, Spectrum, Autocovariance
- 3.2. The Concept of “Very Narrow Spectrum”
- 3.3. Bandwidth and Narrow-Bandedness Parameters
- 3.4. Characteristic Spectra of Wind Seas
- 3.5. How to Obtain the Frequency Spectrum
- 3.6. Wave Record Analysis
- 3.7. Small-Scale Field Experiments
- 3.8. Conclusion

- Chapter 4. Wave Statistics in Sea States
- 4.1. Surface Elevation as a Stationary Gaussian Process
- 4.2. Joint Probability of Surface Elevation
- 4.3. Rice's Problem (1958)
- 4.4. Corollaries of Rice's Problem
- 4.5. Consequences of the QD Theory onto Wave Statistics
- 4.6. Field Verification
- 4.7. Maximum Expected Wave Height and Crest Height in a Sea State of Given Characteristics
- 4.8. FORTRAN Programs for the Maximum Expected Wave in a Sea State of Given Characteristics
- 4.9. Conclusion

- Chapter 5. Design Wave
- 5.1. Distribution of
*H**s*for a Given Geographic Location - 5.2. The “Equivalent Triangular Storm”
- 5.3. Return Period and Average Persistence
- 5.4. The Encounter Probability of a Sea Storm with Some Given Characteristics
- 5.5. The Design Sea State for Given Lifetime and Encounter Probability
- 5.6. Estimate of the Largest Wave Height in the Lifetime
- 5.7. Conclusion

- 5.1. Distribution of
- Chapter 6. Space—Time Theory of Sea States
- 6.1. Wave Field in the Open Sea
- 6.2. Maximum Expected Wave Height at a Given Array of Points in the Design Sea State
- 6.3. Directional Spectrum: Definition and Characteristic Shape
- 6.4. Classic Approach: Obtaining the Directional Distribution
- 6.5. New Approach: Obtaining Individual Angles
*θ**i* - 6.6. Subroutines for Calculation of the Directional Spectrum with the New Method
- 6.7. Worked Example of Obtaining a Directional Spectrum
- 6.8. Conclusion

- Chapter 7. Complements of Space—Time Theory of Sea States
- 7.1. Cross-covariances: Homogeneous Random Wave Field
- 7.2. Sea States Nonhomogeneous in Space
- 7.3. Cross-covariances: Nonhomogeneous Random Wave Fields
- 7.4. Maximum Expected Wave Height in a Nonhomogeneous Sea State
- 7.5. Conclusion

- Chapter 8. The Theory of Quasi-Determinism
- 8.1. The Necessary and Sufficient Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave Crest of Given Very Large Height
- 8.2. A Sufficient Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave of Given Very Large Height
- 8.3. A Necessary Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave of Given Very Large Height
- 8.4. The First Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time
- 8.5. The Velocity Potential Associated with the First Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time
- 8.6. The Second Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time
- 8.7. Comment: A Deterministic Mechanics Is Born by the Theory of Probability
- 8.8. Conclusion

- Chapter 9. Quasi-Determinism Theory: Mechanics of Wave Groups
- 9.1. What Does the Deterministic Wave Function Represent?
- 9.2. Particle Velocity and Acceleration in Wave Groups
- 9.3. The Subroutine QD
- 9.4. Experimental Verification of the Quasi-Determinism Theory: Basic Concepts
- 9.5. Results of Small-Scale Field Experiments
- 9.6. Conclusion

- Chapter 10. QD Theory: Mechanics of Wave Forces on Large Isolated Bodies
- 10.1. Further Proof that the QD Theory Holds for Arbitrary Configurations of the Solid Boundary
- 10.2. Deterministic Pressure Fluctuations on Solid Body
- 10.3. Comparing Wave Pressures on an Isolated Solid Body to the Wave Pressures on an Equivalent Water Body
- 10.4. The Reason the Wave Force on the Solid Body is Greater than the Froude–Krylov Force
- 10.5. Comparing Wave Force on an Isolated Solid Body to the Froude–Krylov Force
- 10.6. A General Model for Calculating the Diffraction Coefficient of Wave Forces
- 10.7. Overall Synthesis
- 10.8. Conclusion

- Chapter 11. QD Theory: Mechanics of Reflected and Diffracted Wave Groups
- 11.1. Before a Breakwater
- 11.2. In the Lee of a Breakwater
- 11.3. Experimental Verification
- 11.4. Conclusion

- Chapter 12. Calculation of Wave Forces on Three-Dimensional Space Frames
- 12.1. Morison Equation and Drag and Inertia Coefficients
- 12.2. Field Tests of Morison Equation
- 12.3. Worked Example
- 12.4. Conclusion

- Chapter 13. Calculation of Wave Forces on Gravity Platforms and Submerged Tunnels
- 13.1. Wave Forces on a Gravity Offshore Platform
- 13.2. Wave Forces on a Submerged Tunnel
- 13.3. Conclusion

- Chapter 14. Loads of Sea Storms on Vertical Breakwaters
- 14.1. Overall Stability of an Upright Section
- 14.2. Wave Pressures
- 14.3. Evidences from SSFEs
- 14.4. The Risk of Impulsive Breaking Wave Pressures
- 14.5. Worked Examples
- 14.6. Conclusion

- Chapter 15. Conversion of Wave Energy
- 15.1. An Overview of Work Done to Exploit Wave Energy Source
- 15.2. The Propagation Speed of Wave Energy
- 15.3. Interaction between Wave and U-OWC
- 15.4. Conclusion

- Chapter 16. Design of a Wave Energy Converter
- 16.1. The Water and Air Flow Inside a U-OWC
- 16.2. Production of Electrical Energy from a Given Sea State
- 16.3. Hydraulic Verifications
- 16.4. FORTRAN Programs
- 16.5. Worked Example
- 16.6. Overall Design
- 16.7. Conclusion

- Index

## Details

- No. of pages:
- 344

- Language:
- English

- Copyright:
- © Butterworth-Heinemann 2015

- Published:
- 23rd September 2014

- Imprint:
- Butterworth-Heinemann

- eBook ISBN:
- 9780128004135

- Hardcover ISBN:
- 9780128003435

- Paperback ISBN:
- 9780128102589

## About the Author

### Paolo Boccotti

Paolo Boccotti is a Professor in the Department of Civil Engineering at the Mediterranean University of Reggio Calabria in Italy, where he has been since 1986. Highlights of his career include him founding the university's School of Marine Engineering and the NOEL laboratory for small-scale field experiments from scratch.

Boccotti has authored over 30 papers for prestigious journals such as Ocean Engineering, the Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, the Journal of Fluid Mechanics and the Journal of Geophysical Research, and in 2000 he published the first edition of 'Wave Mechanics for Ocean Engineering' with Elsevier

### Affiliations and Expertise

Professor of Ocean Engineering, Mediterranean University of Reggio Calabria, Italy and Founder of the Natural Ocean Engineering Laboratory (NOEL)