Sandy Beach Morphodynamics - 1st Edition - ISBN: 9780081029275

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

1st Edition

Editors: Derek Jackson Andrew Short
Paperback ISBN: 9780081029275
Imprint: Elsevier
Published Date: 1st June 2020
Page Count: 500
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Sandy Beach Morphodynamics: Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. This book brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.

Key Features

  • Includes chapters that are written by the world’s leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas
  • Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems
  • Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes


Undergraduate and postgraduates focusing on the theme of physical geography and specifically on coastal processes and nearshore oceanography

Table of Contents

1. Introduction to beach morphodynamics
2. Sand and its origins
3. Wave climates
4. Wave shoaling and dissipation
5. Wave Refraction and diffraction
6. Tidal modulation
7. Nearshore bars
8. Breaking waves
9. Surf zone
10. Swash zone
11. Edge waves v’s self-organising
12. Rip currents
13. Beach Cusps Rhythmic topography: cusps, bars
14. Mixed sand and gravel beaches
15. Ridge and Runnel systems
16. Low energy estuarine beaches
17. Beach modelling
18. Nearshore wave modelling (SWAN)
19. Shoreline change Analysis
20. Reflective-dissipative continuum
21. Wave-dominated: tide-modified: tide-dominated continuum
22. Extreme events: impact and recovery
23. Headland bypassing and overpassing
24. Sediment compartments and sediment budget
25. Long-term shoreline change and beach evolution
26. Beach and nearshore monitoring techniques
27. Measurement of sediment transport alongshore and cross-shore
28. Machine Learning and coastal processes
29. Applying beach morphodynamics to management


No. of pages:
© Elsevier 2020
1st June 2020
Paperback ISBN:

About the Editor

Derek Jackson

Derek Jackson is a coastal geomorphologist whose research focus is on coastal environmental change (morphodynamics and geomorphology) at a number of spatial and temporal scales and works on beach and dune systems at various international sites from Europe to South Africa. These research efforts link into themes such as climate change impacts, its associated sea level rise and increased storminess on coastlines. Much of his work undertaken to date ultimately helps in the development of responses to global climate change and pressures on natural beach and dune systems internationally. He has published widely in these fields, sits on several UK and international research panels and is currently co-director of the Centre for Coastal & Marine Research at Ulster University.

Affiliations and Expertise

School of Geog and Environmental Scs, Ulster University, UK

Andrew Short

Andrew Short is a marine scientist specializing in coastal processes and beach dynamics. He has degrees from the University of Sydney, University of Hawaii and Louisiana State University and has worked on the coasts of North and South America, including north Alaska and Hawaii, Europe, New Zealand and the entire Australian coast. He is presently Honorary Professor in the School of Geosciences at the University of Sydney; Adjunct Professor in the Griffith (University) Centre for Coastal Management; Senior Coastal Scientist (part-time) with; Scientific Adviser to Surf Life Saving Australia; Deputy Chair of National Surfing Reserves (Australia); and on the Executive Committee of World Surfing Reserves. Short has investigated all 10,685 Australian beaches plus another 1500 on 30 major islands. This information is available on line and has been written up in eight books, one for each state and territory. He has written 12 books and over 200 scientific publications. His extensive contribution to both coastal science and beach safety was recognized in 2010 with an Order of Australia Medal.

Affiliations and Expertise

Sydney University, Sydney, Australia

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