Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

1st Edition - May 19, 2020
Editors: Derek Jackson, Andrew Short
Language: English
Paperback ISBN:
9 7 8 - 0 - 0 8 - 1 0 2 9 2 7 - 5
eBook ISBN:
9 7 8 - 0 - 0 8 - 1 0 2 9 2 8 - 2

Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, re… Read more

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Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.

1. Introduction to beach morphodynamics
Derek Jackson and Andrew Short

2. Beach sand and its origins
Burg Flemming

3. Wave climates: deep water to shoaling zone
Fernando Méndez and Ana Rueda

4. Wave Behaviour outside the surfzone
Karin Bryan and Hannah Power

5. Tidal modulation
Luci Pereira, Ana Vila Concejob and Wellington Trindadec

6. Breaking waves
Hannah Power

7. The surf zone
Shari Gallop, Karin Bryan and Gundula Winter

8. The swash zone
Michael Hughes and Tom Baldock

9. Marine sediment transport
Sierd de Vries, Meagan Wengrove and Judith Bosboom

10. Aeolian (windblown) sand transport over beaches
Ian Walker

11. Rip currents
Chris Houser, Phil Wernette, Sarah Trimble and Summer Locknick

12. From Cusps to Capes: Self-Organized shoreline Shapes
Brad Murray, Andrew Ashton and Giovanni Coco

13. Rhythmic patterns in the surfzone
Giovanni Coco, Brad Murray and Andrew Ashton

14. Mixed sand and gravel beaches
Alejandro López-Ruiz, Miguel Ortega-Sánchez and Miguel Losada

15. Sandy beaches in estuaries and bays
Ana Vila-Concejo, Shari Gallop and John Largier

16. Wave-dominated, tide-modified and tide-dominated continuum
Andrew Short

17. Shallow water wave modelling in the nearshore (SWAN)
Emilia Guisado-Pintado

18. Reflective-dissipative continuum
Lluís Gomez-Pujol and Alejandro Orfila

19. Shoreline change Analysis
Helene Burningham, Miriam Fernandez-Nunez

20. Seasonal imprint on beach morphodynamics
Nadia Senechal and Amaia Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu

21. Long-term shoreline morphodynamics: Processes and preservation of environmental signals
Christopher Hein and Andrew Ashton

22. Extreme events: impact and recovery
Bruno Castelle and Mitchell Harley

23. Headland Bypassing and Overpassing: Form, Processes and Applications
Antonio Klein, Guilherme Vieira da Silva, Rui Taborda, Ana Silva and Andrew Short

24. Beach rotation
Carlos Loureiro and Oscar Ferreira

25. Coastal Sediment Compartments, Wave Climate, and Centennial-Scale Sediment Budget
Ian Goodwin, Marta Ribo and Thomas Mortlock

26. Global beach database
Arjen Luijendijk and Sierd de Vries

27. Beach and nearshore monitoring techniques
Anne Ton, Mark Lee, Sander Vos, Matthijs Gawehn, Kees den Heijer and Stefan Aarninkhof

28. Machine Learning and coastal processes
Tom Beuzen and Kristen Splinter

29. Future challenges in beach management as contested spaces
Bruce Thom

Derek Jackson

Derek Jackson is a coastal geomorphologist whose research focus is on coastal environmental change (morphodynamics and geomorphology) at a number of spatial and temporal scales and works on beach and dune systems at various international sites from Europe to South Africa. These research efforts link into themes such as climate change impacts, its associated sea level rise and increased storminess on coastlines. Much of his work undertaken to date ultimately helps in the development of responses to global climate change and pressures on natural beach and dune systems internationally. He has published widely in these fields, sits on several UK and international research panels and is currently co-director of the Centre for Coastal & Marine Research at Ulster University.

Affiliations and expertise

School of Geography and Environmental Sciences, Ulster University, UK

Andrew Short

Andrew Short is a marine scientist specializing in coastal processes and beach dynamics. He has degrees from the University of Sydney, University of Hawaii and Louisiana State University and has worked on the coasts of North and South America, including north Alaska and Hawaii, Europe, New Zealand and the entire Australian coast. He is presently Honorary Professor in the School of Geosciences at the University of Sydney; Adjunct Professor in the Griffith (University) Centre for Coastal Management; Senior Coastal Scientist (part-time) with CoastalCOMS.com; Scientific Adviser to Surf Life Saving Australia; Deputy Chair of National Surfing Reserves (Australia); and on the Executive Committee of World Surfing Reserves. Short has investigated all 10,685 Australian beaches plus another 1500 on 30 major islands. This information is available on line and has been written up in eight books, one for each state and territory. He has written 12 books and over 200 scientific publications. His extensive contribution to both coastal science and beach safety was recognized in 2010 with an Order of Australia Medal.

Affiliations and expertise

Sydney University, Sydney, Australia