Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials - 1st Edition - ISBN: 9780857091345, 9780857095565

Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

1st Edition

Authors: Ineta Vilumsone-Nemes
eBook ISBN: 9780857095565
Hardcover ISBN: 9780857091345
Imprint: Woodhead Publishing
Published Date: 19th April 2012
Page Count: 264
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Table of Contents

About the author

Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles

Preface

Chapter 1: Introduction to cutting room operations in garment manufacture

Abstract:

1.1 Introduction

1.2 Storage, registration and inspection of materials

1.3 Lay planning and marker making processes

1.4 The fabric spreading process

1.5 The fabric cutting process

1.6 Fusing cut components

1.7 Final stages of cutting operations

Chapter 2: Initial preparation and quality control of textile materials in textile cutting operations

Abstract:

2.1 Introduction

2.2 Unloading delivered textile materials

2.3 Sorting and counting the delivered textile materials

2.4 Storage of textile materials in a warehouse

2.5 Quality control of stored textile materials

2.6 Influence of textile faults on the industrial manufacture of garments

Chapter 3: Lay planning and marker making in textile cutting operations

Abstract:

3.1 Introduction

3.2 Basic principles of the lay planning process

3.3 Automation of the lay planning process and cutting room operations

3.4 General characteristics of the marker making process

3.5 Influence of textile material properties on the marker making process

3.6 Placing pattern pieces of fusible components in a marker

3.7 Creation of interlining markers

3.8 Automated marker making process

Chapter 4: Principles and methods of textile spreading

Abstract:

4.1 Introduction

4.2 General characteristics of the spreading process

4.3 Fabric spreading modes and their application

4.4 Dealing with different kinds of spread

4.5 Fabric quality issues

Chapter 5: Manual spreading of textile materials

Abstract:

5.1 Introduction

5.2 Characteristics of the manual spreading process

5.3 Manual spreading process modes

5.4 Disadvantages of the manual spreading process

5.5 Equipment for manual spreading

Chapter 6: Automated spreading of textile materials

Abstract:

6.1 Introduction

6.2 The spreading table

6.3 The spreading machine and its main parts

6.4 Control features in the spreading process

6.5 Semi-automated and fully automated spreading processes

6.6 Spreading machine for tubular materials

6.7 Spreading modes in the automated spreading process

6.8 Automated fabric fault registration and management systems

6.9 Comparing manual and automated spreading processes

Chapter 7: The manual textile cutting process

Abstract:

7.1 Introduction

7.2 Characteristics of the manual cutting process

7.3 Notches and cloth marking drills

7.4 Accuracy problems in the manual cutting process

Chapter 8: Manual cutting equipment in textile cutting operations

Abstract:

8.1 Introduction

8.2 The straight knife cutting machine

8.3 The round (rotary) knife cutting machine

8.4 The small round knife cutting machine

8.5 The band knife cutting machine

8.6 The fabric drilling machine

8.7 The hot notching machine

Chapter 9: Automated cutting of textile materials

Abstract:

9.1 Introduction

9.2 Automated cutting systems and their main parts

9.3 Automated knife cutting systems

9.4 Knife cutting systems for textiles

9.5 Automated laser cutting systems

9.6 Automated water-jet cutting systems

9.7 Automated plasma cutting systems

9.8 Automated ultrasonic cutting systems

9.9 Multi-purpose cutters

Chapter 10: Placement of equipment in the textile cutting room

Abstract:

10.1 Introduction

10.2 Placement of manual spreading and cutting equipment/workstations in the cutting room

10.3 Placement of automated spreading and cutting equipment/workstations in the cutting room

10.4 Lay storage systems for automated cutting processes

Chapter 11: Fusing cut textile components

Abstract:

11.1 Introduction

11.2 General characteristics of interlinings

11.3 Fusing presses and their main parts

11.4 Fusing quality problems and their prevention

Chapter 12: Final work operations in the cutting process for textiles

Abstract:

12.1 Introduction

12.2 Causes of quality problems in cut components

12.3 Quality control of cut components

12.4 Re-cutting faulty components

12.5 Numbering cut components

12.6 Sorting and bundling cut components

Chapter 13: Manual marker making, spreading and cutting of striped fabrics

Abstract:

13.1 Introduction

13.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with stripes

13.3 Spreading and cutting process

Chapter 14: Manual marker making, spreading and cutting materials with check patterns

Abstract:

14.1 Introduction

14.2 Marker making for styles from materials with check patterns

14.3 The spreading and cutting processes

Chapter 15: Manual marker making, spreading and cutting fabrics with motif patterns

Abstract:

15.1 Introduction

15.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with motif pattern

15.3 The spreading and cutting processes

Chapter 16: Manual marker making, spreading and cutting fabrics with border patterns

Abstract:

16.1 Introduction

16.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with a border pattern

16.3 The spreading and cutting processes

Chapter 17: Manual marker making, spreading and cutting narrow lace

Abstract:

17.1 Introduction

17.2 General characteristics of narrow lace

17.3 Characteristics of lingerie components cut from lace

17.4 Placement of the pattern on the components

17.5 Marker making styles directly on fabric

17.6 The spreading process

17.7 The cutting process

Chapter 18: Spreading and cutting fabrics with pile

Abstract:

18.1 Introduction

18.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with pile

18.3 Spreading and cutting fabrics with low-cut pile

18.4 Spreading and cutting fabrics with high-cut pile

Chapter 19: Problems in spreading and cutting intricate fabrics and methods to prevent them

Abstract:

19.1 Introduction

19.2 Marker making directly on a particular pattern

19.3 Precise coordination of patterns in all plies of a spread

19.4 Pin tables to prevent displacement of multi-ply spreads

19.5 Automated systems to match patterns of intricate fabrics

Glossary

Index


Description

A cutting room is a separate area in a clothing manufacturer where garment components are cut out. The accuracy and efficiency of cutting room operations is critical to all subsequent operations and to final garment quality. Drawing on the author’s extensive experience, Industrial cutting of textile materials summarises good practice in cutting room operations.

After an introduction, the author reviews initial steps such as unloading, sorting and quality control of materials. She then discusses subsequent operations from lay planning and marker making, through manual and automated spreading and cutting, to fusing of cut components and final work operations such as sorting cut components for sewing. Dr Vi?umsone-Nemes also discusses marker making, spreading and cutting of more intricate fabrics such as striped fabrics and fabrics with check, motif and border patterns, narrow lace and pile fabrics.

Industrial cutting of textile materials provides essential knowledge about cutting processes to designers, technologists, and managers to help in improving product quality and in controlling production processes effectively.

Key Features

  • Summarises good practice in cutting room operations
  • Reviews initial steps such as unloading, sorting and quality control of materials and discusses subsequent operations from lay planning and marker making to fusing of cut components and final work operations
  • Includes coverage of more intricate fabrics such as striped fabrics and fabrics with check, motif and border patterns, narrow lace and pile fabrics

Readership

Designers, technologists, managers and manufacturing specialists at various levels of expertise


Details

No. of pages:
264
Language:
English
Copyright:
© Woodhead Publishing 2012
Published:
Imprint:
Woodhead Publishing
eBook ISBN:
9780857095565
Hardcover ISBN:
9780857091345

About the Authors

Ineta Vilumsone-Nemes Author

Dr Ineta Vilumsone-Nemes has conducted academic research and worked in textile manufacturing for almost 20 years, including working with garment manufacturers from several European countries. She is now an independent consultant and lecturer in garment production technologies and management.

Affiliations and Expertise

Consultant, Latvia