1. Introduction. Basic ideas and assumptions. Kinematics of water particle. Dynamics of water particle. Conservation laws. References. 2. Short Surface Waves. General characteristics. Problem formulation for short waves (&Pgr; ≤ 0.30 or U ≤ 75). First Stokes perturbation method. Second Stokes perturbation method. Analytical and numerical solution for steep waves. Validity of theoretical solutions. References. 3. Refraction of Short Waves by Slowly Varying Depth. Geometrical optics approximation. Waves in neighbourhood of a straight caustic. Influence of bottom friction. Refraction - diffraction processes. Propagation of waves over underwater step and channels. Scattering of surface waves by periodic sandbars. References. 4. Long Surface Waves. General remarks. Boussinesq solution (O(&ngr;) = O(&dgr;2)). Solitary waves. Korteweg-de Vries equation. Cnoidal waves. Linearized long wave equation. Propagation of long waves over shoaling bottom. Edge waves. References. 5. Wave Modulation and Breaking. Nonlinear modulation of surface waves in space and time. Wave breaking. References. 6. Wind-Induced Wave Statistics. General remarks. Stress of wind on sea surface. Similarity laws for wind-generated waves. Statistical properties of the wind waves. Wave groups in the coastal zone. Long-term statistics in the coastal zone. References. 7. Spectral Properties of Wind Waves. General remarks. Width of energy spectra. Spectral models of wind waves on limited water depth. Evolution of spectral function over shoaling water depth. References. 8. Currents in Coastal Zone. Currents classification. Wind currents in coastal zone. Longshore currents induced by waves. Rip currents and coastal circulation. Mass transport in shallow water. Tidal currents in coastal zone. Interactions of waves and currents. References. 9. Variation of
This book discusses selected theoretical topics of coastal hydrodynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal oceanography and coastal engineering. It is not intended as a handbook; the emphasis is placed on presentation of a number of basic problems, rather than giving detailed instructions for their application. The bulk of the material deals with surface waves. In the author's opinion there is still a strong need for a book on wave phenomena in the coastal waters, as general textbooks on sea surface dynamics focus most of their attention on the deep ocean. This book intends to fill this need by concentrating on the phenomena typical of the coastal zone.
Based on lectures given at the Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences in Gdansk, the approach throughout is a combination of the theoretical and observational. A basic knowledge of ordinary and partial differential equations, as well as the statistical and spectral analysis of time series, is assumed. The reader should also be familiar with fundamental hydrodynamic concepts.
The book comprises nine chapters. Governing equations and conservation laws are treated in Chapter 1, using the variational principles. The theory of regular surface waves is covered in Chapters 2 to 4. The nonlinear effect of wave train modulation and their breaking of beaches is examined in Chapter 5. Chapters 6 and 7 focus on the statistical and spectral treatment of waves induced by wind. Current generation and circulation pattern are the subject of Chapter 8, while sea level variations are examined in Chapter 9. References for further reading are given at the end of each chapter.
- No. of pages:
- © Elsevier Science 1989
- 1st April 1989
- Elsevier Science
- eBook ISBN:
- Hardcover ISBN:
@from:Australian Mineral Foundation @qu:For the human occupiers of the adjacent shores, the coastal zone holds self evident significance so that a scientific understanding of the behaviour of coastal waters under varying conditions of wind and storm may be regarded as an essential basis for engineering or recreational planning. For whatever relevant purpose, the approach offered here may be useful. @source: