Handbook of Natural Fibres - 1st Edition - ISBN: 9781845696979, 9780857095503

Handbook of Natural Fibres

1st Edition

Types, Properties and Factors Affecting Breeding and Cultivation

Editors: Ryszard Kozłowski
Hardcover ISBN: 9781845696979
eBook ISBN: 9780857095503
Imprint: Woodhead Publishing
Published Date: 19th October 2012
Page Count: 656
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Table of Contents

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Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles


Part I: Fundamentals: types of fibre, properties, identification and testing

Chapter 1: Introduction to natural textile fibres


1.1 Introduction

1.2 Historical background of natural fibres

1.3 Handbook of natural fibres

Chapter 2: Cotton fibres


2.1 Introduction

2.2 The cotton plant

2.3 Cotton fibre structure

2.4 Physical properties of cotton

2.5 Measuring cotton quality

2.6 Future trends

2.7 Acknowledgement

Chapter 3: Bast fibres: jute


3.1 Introduction to jute

3.2 Types of jute

3.3 Fibre morphology

3.4 Chemical composition

3.5 Properties of jute

3.6 Typical applications

3.7 Conclusions

Chapter 4: Bast fibres: ramie


4.1 Introduction to ramie

4.2 Types of ramie

4.3 Fibre morphology

4.4 Properties of ramie

4.5 Typical applications

4.6 Conclusions

4.7 Sources of further information and advice

Chapter 5: Bast fibres: flax


5.1 Introduction

5.2 Flax plant morphology

5.3 Structure and chemical composition of flax

5.4 Flax harvesting

5.5 Degumming

5.6 Scutching

5.7 Hackling (combing)

5.8 'Cottonization'

5.9 Spinning

5.10 Bleaching, dyeing

5.11 Finishing

5.12 Recapitulation

5.13 Conclusions and future trends

5.14 Sources of further information and advice

Chapter 6: Bast fibres: hemp cultivation and production


6.1 Introduction

6.2 The hemp plant

6.3 Hemp cultivation

6.4 Retting

6.5 Fibre extraction

6.6 Hemp fibre spinning

Chapter 7: Silk fibres


7.1 Introduction

7.2 Silk industry

7.3 Microstructure and appearance

7.4 Amino acid composition

7.5 Properties of silk

7.6 Applications of silk

7.7 Future trends

7.8 Conclusions

7.9 Sources of further information and advice

Chapter 8: Wool fibres


8.1 Introduction

8.2 The effects of the economy on wool

8.3 Wool production

8.4 Chemistry and morphology

8.5 Properties of wool

8.6 Industrial usage of wool

8.7 Branding and consumer friendliness

Chapter 9: Mohair, cashmere and other animal hair fibres


9.1 Introduction

9.2 Alpaca

9.3 Angora rabbit hair

9.4 Camel

9.5 Cashgora

9.6 Cashmere

9.7 Guanaco

9.8 Llama

9.9 Mohair

9.10 Musk-ox

9.11 Vicuña

9.12 Yak

9.13 Other animal hair fibres

9.14 Acknowledgements

Chapter 10: Bioengineered natural textile fibres


10.1 Introduction

10.2 Bacterial cellulose

10.3 Enzymatic treatment of cellulose

10.4 Future trends

10.5 Conclusions

10.7 Appendix: abbreviations

Chapter 11: Identification of natural textile fibres


11.1 Introduction

11.2 Natural textile fibres

11.3 Identification methods

11.4 Practical approach

11.5 Forensic analysis

11.6 Future trends

11.8 Appendix: abbreviations

Chapter 12: Testing of natural textile fibres


12.1 Introduction

12.2 Key issues in testing natural fibres

12.3 Test methods for natural fibres

12.4 Measuring the physical properties of natural fibres

12.5 Chemical properties

12.6 Instrumental methods

12.7 Future trends

12.10 Appendix: abbreviations

Part II: Improving natural fibre production through breeding and cultivation

Chapter 13: Developments in fibrous flax breeding and cultivation


13.1 Introduction

13.2 Key issues of fibre flax breeding and cultivating

13.3 Methods of flax and linseed breeding



13.4 Modern methods in flax and linseed breeding

13.5 Sources of further information and advice

13.7 Appendix: abbreviations

Chapter 14: Cotton breeding and agro-technology


14.1 Introduction

14.2 Genetic review

14.3 Breeding methodology

14.4 Agronomy and physiology

14.5 Breeding targets

14.6 Future trends

14.7 Conclusions

14.8 Sources of further information and advice

14.10 Appendix: abbreviations

Chapter 15: Fibre flax cultivation in sustainable agriculture


15.1 Introduction to fibre flax for sustainable agriculture

15.2 Flax growth cycle

15.3 The role of cultivars in sustainable flax cultivation

15.4 The importance of crop rotation

15.5 Flax cultivation requirements

15.6 Flax harvest

15.7 Future trends in fibre flax growing for sustainable agriculture

Chapter 16: Prevention of fungal growth in natural fibres


16.1 Introduction

16.2 Key issues of fungal growth, especially mildew, in natural fibres

16.3 Methods of preventing fungal growth, especially mildew, in natural fibres

16.4 Future trends

16.5 Conclusion

Chapter 17: Genetic engineering and biotechnology of natural textile fiber plants


17.1 Introduction: global status of commercialized biotech crops

17.2 Fibrous biotech crops

17.3 Future trends

17.4 Conclusions

17.5 Sources of further information and advice

17.7 Appendix: abbreviations

Chapter 18: Wild silk: wild silk enterprise programs to alleviate poverty and protect habitats


18.1 Introduction

18.2 Definition of silk

18.3 Silk structure and function

18.4 Wild silk enterprise

18.5 Wild silk enterprise versus alternative conservation and poverty alleviation programs in Madagascar

18.6 Conclusion




Growing awareness of environmental issues has led to increasing demand for goods produced from natural products, including natural fibres. The two-volume Handbook of natural fibres is an indispensible tool in understanding the diverse properties and applications of these important materials. Volume 1: Types, properties and factors affecting breeding and cultivation is an essential guide to a wide range of natural fibres, and highlights key techniques for their improvement.

Part one reviews key types and fundamental properties of natural textile fibres. The production, identification and testing of a range of cotton, bast, silk and wool fibres are discussed, alongside bioengineered natural textile fibres. Part two goes on to explore the improvement of natural fibre properties and production through breeding and cultivation, beginning with a discussion of fibrous flax and cotton. Improved natural fibre production through the prevention of fungal growth is explored, along with the use of genetic engineering and biotechnology to enhance desirable characteristics. Finally, the wider impact of natural textile production is discussed, using wild silk enterprise programs as an example.

With its distinguished editor and international team of expert contributors, the two volumes of the Handbook of natural fibres are essential texts for professionals and academics in textile science and technology.

Key Features

  • Provides an essential guide to a wide range of natural fibres and highlights key techniques for their improvement
  • Reviews key types and fundamental properties of natural textile fibres, addressing the production, identification and testing of a range of cotton, bast, silk and wool fibres
  • Explores the improvement of natural fibre properties and production through breeding and cultivation, beginning with a discussion of fibrous flax and cotton


Professionals and academics within the textile industry as well as those involved in the cultivation and farming of natural fibers.


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About the Editors

Ryszard Kozłowski Editor

Professor Ryszard M. Kozlowski is the award-winning former Director of the Polish Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants. He is an Honorary Fellow of the Textile Institute, Editor-in-Chief of the Journal of Natural Fibres, Scientific Advisor to the Institute for Engineering of Polymer Materials and Dyes, and Doctor Honoris Causa of the Pontifical Catholic University of Ibarra, Ecuador. Professor Koz?owski is also Coordinator of both ESCORENA (the European System of Cooperative Research Networks in Agriculture and the FAO/ESCORENA European Cooperative Research Network on Flax and other Bast Plants. He is the author/co-author of over 300 publications, including 26 books and 25 patents.

Affiliations and Expertise

Institute of Natural Fibres (INF), Poland