Waves, Tides & Shallow-Water Processes
- Open University, Milton Keynes, UK
This is the fourth Volume of the six Volume Open University set. Each Volume is used by students as a relevant part of the Open University course in the UK, but designed so that it can equally be used as an individual text book. This Volume describes waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water and unusual waves. It also considers mainly theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition of currents, wave estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides and river flow in deltas. Concludes with a look at shelf-sea processes and their mineral resources. Each Volume in this set is well laid out and copiously illustrated with full colour photographs, graphs and graphics. Questions to help develop arguments and/or understanding can be found in the text and at the end of each chapter, with worked answers provided at the back of each Volume. Each chapter also concludes with a summary to help consolidate understanding before the next chapter is begun.
For students of oceanography, geophysics, marine biology, geochemistry and sedimentology.
Open University Oceanography
Published: May 1989
- Waves: What are waves? Wave-forms. Wave dispersion and group speed. Wave energy. Waves of unusual character. Measurement of waves. Tides: Tide producing forces - the Earth-Moon system. Tide producing forces - the Earth-Sun system. The dynamic theory of tides. Types of tide. An Introduction to Shallow-water Environments and their Sediments: The supply of sediments to shallow-water environments. Variations in the supply and distribution of shallow-water sediments. The relationship between shallow-water environments and their changes with time. Sediment Movement with Waves and Currents: Fluid flow. Sediment erosion. The rate of sediment transport. The deposition of sediment. Bedforms. Beaches and the Littoral Zone: The divisions of the littoral zone. Sediment movement in the littoral zone. Beach profiles. Beach materials and sediment structures. Tidal Flats and Estuaries: Sediment transport and deposition on tidal flats. Estuaries. Deltas: The structure of a delta. Mixing and sediment deposition at distributary mouths. Shelf Seas: Shelf sediments. Shelf processes. Bedforms on the continental shelf. Shelf processes and resources.